The objective of the Sandpit project is to develop reliable prediction techniques and guidelines to better understand, simulate and predict the morphological behavior of large-scale sand mining pits and the associated sand transport processes at the middle and lower (offshore) shoreface and also surrounding coastal zone. read more

Hardhat is a time series analysis tool developed for use with the Coastal Research instrumented tripods. It splits and calibrates Campbell FSF and Campbell ASCII files. The calibration includes correction for air pressure and conversion to surface elevation. Wave and current parameters can be computed from measured time series. It includes a sophisticated viewing function (Graph) with zoom and pan function. read more

Tripods consist of a frame on which several instruments can be mounted. These tripods are used to take in-situ measurements of sediment transports on near-shore coastal waters and rivers. read more

Nearshore sandbars (alongshore ridges of sand in 2 - 10 m water depth typical of microtidal, storm-dominated coasts) serve as a natural protection for beaches by causing waves to break away from the shoreline. Cross-shore sandbar behavior is governed by the feedback between nonlinear hydrodynamics, sediment transport and the sandbar itself. Predictions of sandbar behavior with sophisticated numerical models are inherently uncertain because of a sensitive dependence on initial conditions and model inadequacies. This project aims to quantify these uncertainties and to determine its relevant source by means of embedding the traditional single-forecasts in a probabilistic (ensemble) environment and ensemble data-assimilation techniques. read more

The Berau delta and barrier reef system, East Kalimantan, Indonesia, represents a complex coastal system with a variety of coastal landforms. This project focuses on studying the conditions under which the estuary acts as either a trap or a conduit of sediment. Given the river discharge and sediment supply from the Berau drainage basin, the actual flow and sediment transport through the tidal river, the estuary and the coastal shelf towards the coral reefs can be estimated. read more