Bifurcations distribute water, sediment and contaminants over distributaries in deltas. The aim of this study is to develop and test a bifurcation stability model for time-scales of 10¹-10³yr, in which water and sediment is distributed depending on both local (e.g., meandering, bifurcation planform) and regional controls (e.g., climate, base-level). Bifurcations are key elements in delta evolution on time-scales of 10²-10³yr and river flooding mitigation on time-scales of 10¹-10²yr. read more

Nearshore sandbars often exhibit remarkable alongshore-periodic undulations in their height and cross-shore position. These so-called crescentic sandbars are characterised by horizontal flow patterns with rip currents. During storm periods, the sandbars are almost immediately straightened again due to strong undertow currents. In double-barred systems, the shape of the outer bar may govern the evolution of the inner bar, introducing coupled patterns. In this project field observations (video images) and numerical models are combined to determine the conditions under which the outer crescentic sandbar (a) controls the morphology of the inner bar and (b) is reshaped into a shore-parallel linear bar. read more

The purpose of the Coast3D project is to improve understanding of the physics of coastal sand transport and morphodynamics, to remedy the present lack of validation data of sand transport and morphology suitable for testing numerical models of coastal processes, to test a representative sample of numerical models for predicting coastal sand transport and morphodynamics against this data, to deliver validated modelling tools, and methodologies for their use, in a form suitable for coastal zone management, to deliver a set of guidelines for practical coastal zone management. read more

Hardhat is a time series analysis tool developed for use with the Coastal Research instrumented tripods. It splits and calibrates Campbell FSF and Campbell ASCII files. The calibration includes correction for air pressure and conversion to surface elevation. Wave and current parameters can be computed from measured time series. It includes a sophisticated viewing function (Graph) with zoom and pan function. read more

Tripods consist of a frame on which several instruments can be mounted. These tripods are used to take in-situ measurements of sediment transports on near-shore coastal waters and rivers. read more