The Berau delta and barrier reef system, East Kalimantan, Indonesia, represents a complex coastal system with a variety of coastal landforms. This project focuses on studying the conditions under which the estuary acts as either a trap or a conduit of sediment. Given the river discharge and sediment supply from the Berau drainage basin, the actual flow and sediment transport through the tidal river, the estuary and the coastal shelf towards the coral reefs can be estimated. read more

The objective of this project is to understand the short- to long-term behavior of bar and rip patterns on the beach. This is done by monthly surveying the beach morphology, describing and doing morphometric analysis of the intertidal bar morphology using the ARGUS video images of Noordwijk and Egmond aan Zee in the Netherlands. read more

Nearshore sandbars (alongshore ridges of sand in 2 - 10 m water depth typical of microtidal, storm-dominated coasts) serve as a natural protection for beaches by causing waves to break away from the shoreline. Cross-shore sandbar behavior is governed by the feedback between nonlinear hydrodynamics, sediment transport and the sandbar itself. Predictions of sandbar behavior with sophisticated numerical models are inherently uncertain because of a sensitive dependence on initial conditions and model inadequacies. This project aims to quantify these uncertainties and to determine its relevant source by means of embedding the traditional single-forecasts in a probabilistic (ensemble) environment and ensemble data-assimilation techniques. read more

This project aims to reconstruct the transgression of the fluvial valley, with emphasis on the interlinked response of the coastal and fluvial to rapid sea-level rise. To do so, beside collecting new data, existing subsurface data from many different sources are integrated in a single database. With this data, past sea levels and the development of the study area are reconstructed. Using the results, sequence stratigraphic models will be tested. read more

The purpose of the Coast3D project is to improve understanding of the physics of coastal sand transport and morphodynamics, to remedy the present lack of validation data of sand transport and morphology suitable for testing numerical models of coastal processes, to test a representative sample of numerical models for predicting coastal sand transport and morphodynamics against this data, to deliver validated modelling tools, and methodologies for their use, in a form suitable for coastal zone management, to deliver a set of guidelines for practical coastal zone management. read more