Objectives

To impart knowledge of the water movement of wind-induced short waves and wind- and current-induced sediment transport, including the accompanying computation methods.

Content

• Linear and non-linear short waves; orbital motion; shoaling, refraction and diffraction of waves; energy dissipation by bed friction and breaking of waves; bottom boundary layer; irregular waves (statistics); radiation stress concept; wave-induced currents.
• Sediment characteristics; initiation of motion; bed and suspended sand transport by currents, waves and combined waves and currents.

Literature and other media

• Principles of fluid flow and surface waves in rivers, estuaries, seas and oceans
• Principles of sediment transport in rivers, estuaries and coastal seas

Modes of instruction

Tutorials (15 x 3 hours)

Assessment

Written examination, written assignments, final grade consists of grade from written examination and possibly a bonus grade

Prerequisites

Knowledge of types of currents, fluid characteristics, statics (isotropics, hydrostatic pressure), kinematics (stream lines, accelerations, deformation, continuity) and dynamics (laminar and turbulent currents, equation of motion, friction laws, velocity distribution over vertical, water surface gradient), long waves (discharge wave, tidal wave, Kelvin wave).

Lecturer

Prof. dr. L. C. van Rijn